Sunday, March 6, 2011

Italy: Top 10 Rome Part 2

5) Galleria Borghese: It is one of the best museums on the planet if you ask me. All is how it should be, works perfectly situated throughout the spacious rooms. The Villa itself if a warm stone place placed in an oasis in the city. The gardens are a dream and the park surrounding the villa is an airy wonder that deserves to be covered inch by peaceful inch.4) The Spanish Steps and the Mouth of Truth: Everyone has seen the film "Roman Holiday" and if you haven't you should! As a teenage girl visiting Rome for the first time I have never come to have another more exciting experience than standing on the Spanish steps where one Audrey Hepburn stood and realizing where I actually was. Another scene from the film takes place at the " Bocca della Verita." It is a bit hidden but the walk to and around this area is splendid and its a good neighborhood to escape tourists and just get lost among the buildings and ruins.
3) Piazza Navona: This is what Rome is all about. People watching, drinking wine, eating gelato, sitting in a neighboring square talking with friends. My first trip to Rome was less than perfect, but when we were feeling low we would return time after time to this area and just sit, look, listen and talk and then everything would be right again.
2) Pantheon: One of the best preserved buildings from Ancient Rome. It was built in the 2nd century AD and admission if free! This is another place that could only be found in Rome. The sheer size of the building, the immense amount of genius it took to building and remain upright today is baffling. The surrounding area is a bit of a tourist trap, especially for meals so my advice is to stop to sit and have a drink, then move on.
1) Trastevere neighborhood: Any time of day is good to come to this neighborhood. I happened to go at a strange time between meals. My friend and I found a small restaurant with only one other patron and sat down. It was down a little street next to a variety store and across from several apartment buildings. Down the street you could see children kicking a ball around and at one point during our time there we witnessed a nice young man ask out a very nice young woman. We drank an almost insane amount of delicious red wine and devoured the single best pizza of my entire life. Our faces got sunburned, we were tipsy, but were sublimely happy.

Italy: Top 10 Rome Part 1


Something about this city is too much to handle. You never quite get over the disbelief of being there. One minute your marveling at the extreme speed the cars whip through the streets and the next you are sitting on the edge of a fountain, thousands of years old, contemplating what it would take to move to Rome permanently. I have been to Rome twice and the two trips seemed to derive from different worlds. The experiences were singular and incomparable. It is an enormous city, it is an ancient city, a romantic city, a busy city, a frightening city but most of all it is a sensuous city and one that you need to experience in your lifetime.

Top Ten Rome

10) The colosseum: I have had friends exclaim when they first enter the Colosseum "I thought it would be bigger" of course at one time it was larger, but these comments always amaze me. If it is a clear day there is nothing more breathtaking than the top rise of structure against that cobalt Italian sky. It is worth the admission price and it is worth stopping by a second time when the sun has gone down so you can see it lit up in all its glory as moped swirl around its exterior.

9) The Roman Forum and the Capitoline Hill: There is too much to see. Rome is truly best visited when the weather is nice, but that usually mean visiting during the peak tourist season, but I would suggest going slightly off season, either in the fall or early spring for no other reason than to walk through the forum when there aren't swarms of people. It will still be amazing if you are elbow to elbow with strangers walking around the giant, freeze-framed, half deconstructed area, but it will be breathtaking if you can take your time, sit down on a worn piece of marble and simply walk around like it was any old part of the city.
8)The Vatican and Sistine Chapel: The smarted thing I have ever done in my life was to buy tickets in advance online for almost every major attraction I visited in Rome. The second time I visited the city It was during Easter and I bought advance tickets to see the Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museum and you simply walk around a mile long line of people waiting on the streets and get right in! There are no cameras allowed inside, but I would recommend bring a small pair of binoculars to view the spectacular details on the ceiling. Another must while you are in the Vatican city is to send a postcard from the Vatican post office (it is its own country after all) and your card will be stamped from the Vatican and not Italy.
7) The fountains,: Of course the Trevi is the most famous. It is a bit hard to find, but don't worry you will get there. Besides the Trevi there are hundreds of other glorious fountains incredibly famous sculptors just lining the sidewalks.
6) Bernini: If one sculptor has a monopoly over Rome it may just be Bernini. He has some of the best known pieces of art in the city from the provocative "Ecstacy of St. Theresa"and "Rape of Persephone" to the lesser known "Blessed Ludovica Albertoni" situated in the quiet San Francesco a Ripa church. I went on a mad hunt for this last sculpture my final hours in Rome before flying back to Hungary. My friend and I finally found it and determined to see the work we burst into the church midday to discover the pews filled with nuns attending afternoon mass. We caught a quick glimpse of the statue and a last look at the true Rome before sneaking out unnoticed.


Monday, January 31, 2011

Book Review: Spain



I know it's doesn't look cool, I know the best way to experience a place is to just go, walk around, explore, but sometimes you just need a guide book. When it comes to an entire country like Spain I recommend one travel book and that is the Eyewitness Series from DK. I have heard people criticize this series, because it is relatively picture happy, but I think in this case it is a good thing. In order to get a complete overview of one of the largest countries in Europe it is hard to read page after page of text and grasp the places you would like to visit. I mentioned in my previous post about Barcelona that I first went to Spain for one simple reason. I saw a picture of the Sagrada Familia and I knew that I had to see that place. Eyewitness has amazing snapshots of some of the best places in the country, whether they are famous buildings, landscapes, local dishes or people. The descriptions of each place are relatively short, but this also cuts out personal opinion and allows you to shape your own ideas through experience. This book is simply a jumping off point, something that you can look over before you leave, place a few stickies in and take with you.

There are a few other features I like about this book. It gives fairly good hotel and restaurant recommendations in the back along with a money guide to inform you how expensive a place is. There is nothing worse than spending months planning for a trip only to get to your hotel and find that your room is too small, too big, to dirty, too smokey and you just cannot bare to stay there. It is so nice to have at least some sort of option (this book includes address and telephone numbers of hotels). I have followed the recommendations once or twice and though a lot are very touristy the majority of them are good. Within the book, in a specific city or town there are also the editors favorite hotels and restaurants and these are highlighted in a bit more detail.

If packing space allows I would also recommend taking a pocket guide of each of the major cities you will be visiting, particularly Madrid and Barcelona, because there is so much to see and chances are you will be referencing the book quite a bit. A smaller book is easier to tote around for the whole day and easier to whip out quickly.

Also feel free to pay an insane amount of money on a laminated city map from your overpriced travel store, but I wouldn't. Granted these maps do last and are waterproof, but they are generally small and are broken up awkwardly and I find a bit hard to follow. The best place to get a map is either at your hotel, hostel or tourism office. You will most likely find one at the airport, train station or metro station as well. Receptionists, tour guides and information desk workers are trained to help you, and please don't be afraid to ask them to mark where you are and where you would like to go, it will save you time and some guess work. I would grab a few maps, because they tend to get pretty warn out and you never know when you will lose something.

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Day Trip: Sitges

A quick day escape for the party and beach lover. This small beach side town is touristy along the water, but the old town center and the blue sea make it a great place to get some rays. Only a 30 minute ride by commuter train from Barcelona (tickets cost less than 5 euros). Sip sangria, lick an ice cream cone or just mingle with the various locals and the multitude of european part-time residents.

Day Trip: Girona and Figueres

An inevitable trip for art lovers. Caraques and Figuerres are the homes of the Dali house and museum. It is a surreal wonderland that will leave you wanting more of this infamous artist. Girona is just a train or bus stop away, but it seems like a different world. This is traditional Cataluna. The city is old, the restaurants are great and it was the one time home of world famous cyclist Lance Armstrong while he prepared for the Tour de France.



Day and Night Trip: Granada

Anytime of year is a good time to visit Granada. It is old Spain at its finest. You have the Alhambra, the Cathedral, the mountains, the culture, just to name some of the highlights, but if there is one time of year that I would recommend going it is Easter week (Holy week). I went during this time out of convenience and was surprised to find the city so alive and teaming with people. As soon as it was dark people lined the man street to the cathedral and watched as float after gilded float were carried by on the backs of towns people. The week before Easter catholic Spain turns out all the stops with spectacular parades. The floats are the stages of the cross sculpted out in life size statues (usually made of wood) and adorned with candles and flowers. The floats are preceded by the notorious hooded processors. No matter what you believes it is local culture to the extreme and is a worth while experience.



Day Trip: El Escorial

After my second trip to Madrid I wanted to do something a little different for the day. I took the train with some friend some 30 minutes outside the city to the San Lorenzo de El Escorial which is home to a gargantuan 16th century complex that was once a royal palace, a school, a monastery and a museum. It is still a monastery and museum and deserves a visit. The town itself is charming and quiet, while the Monastery is historical perfection. There are perfectly pruned gardens, a magnificent library and miles of passages ways and paths to walk all day long.