Monday, January 31, 2011

Book Review: Spain



I know it's doesn't look cool, I know the best way to experience a place is to just go, walk around, explore, but sometimes you just need a guide book. When it comes to an entire country like Spain I recommend one travel book and that is the Eyewitness Series from DK. I have heard people criticize this series, because it is relatively picture happy, but I think in this case it is a good thing. In order to get a complete overview of one of the largest countries in Europe it is hard to read page after page of text and grasp the places you would like to visit. I mentioned in my previous post about Barcelona that I first went to Spain for one simple reason. I saw a picture of the Sagrada Familia and I knew that I had to see that place. Eyewitness has amazing snapshots of some of the best places in the country, whether they are famous buildings, landscapes, local dishes or people. The descriptions of each place are relatively short, but this also cuts out personal opinion and allows you to shape your own ideas through experience. This book is simply a jumping off point, something that you can look over before you leave, place a few stickies in and take with you.

There are a few other features I like about this book. It gives fairly good hotel and restaurant recommendations in the back along with a money guide to inform you how expensive a place is. There is nothing worse than spending months planning for a trip only to get to your hotel and find that your room is too small, too big, to dirty, too smokey and you just cannot bare to stay there. It is so nice to have at least some sort of option (this book includes address and telephone numbers of hotels). I have followed the recommendations once or twice and though a lot are very touristy the majority of them are good. Within the book, in a specific city or town there are also the editors favorite hotels and restaurants and these are highlighted in a bit more detail.

If packing space allows I would also recommend taking a pocket guide of each of the major cities you will be visiting, particularly Madrid and Barcelona, because there is so much to see and chances are you will be referencing the book quite a bit. A smaller book is easier to tote around for the whole day and easier to whip out quickly.

Also feel free to pay an insane amount of money on a laminated city map from your overpriced travel store, but I wouldn't. Granted these maps do last and are waterproof, but they are generally small and are broken up awkwardly and I find a bit hard to follow. The best place to get a map is either at your hotel, hostel or tourism office. You will most likely find one at the airport, train station or metro station as well. Receptionists, tour guides and information desk workers are trained to help you, and please don't be afraid to ask them to mark where you are and where you would like to go, it will save you time and some guess work. I would grab a few maps, because they tend to get pretty warn out and you never know when you will lose something.

Thursday, January 27, 2011

Day Trip: Sitges

A quick day escape for the party and beach lover. This small beach side town is touristy along the water, but the old town center and the blue sea make it a great place to get some rays. Only a 30 minute ride by commuter train from Barcelona (tickets cost less than 5 euros). Sip sangria, lick an ice cream cone or just mingle with the various locals and the multitude of european part-time residents.

Day Trip: Girona and Figueres

An inevitable trip for art lovers. Caraques and Figuerres are the homes of the Dali house and museum. It is a surreal wonderland that will leave you wanting more of this infamous artist. Girona is just a train or bus stop away, but it seems like a different world. This is traditional Cataluna. The city is old, the restaurants are great and it was the one time home of world famous cyclist Lance Armstrong while he prepared for the Tour de France.



Day and Night Trip: Granada

Anytime of year is a good time to visit Granada. It is old Spain at its finest. You have the Alhambra, the Cathedral, the mountains, the culture, just to name some of the highlights, but if there is one time of year that I would recommend going it is Easter week (Holy week). I went during this time out of convenience and was surprised to find the city so alive and teaming with people. As soon as it was dark people lined the man street to the cathedral and watched as float after gilded float were carried by on the backs of towns people. The week before Easter catholic Spain turns out all the stops with spectacular parades. The floats are the stages of the cross sculpted out in life size statues (usually made of wood) and adorned with candles and flowers. The floats are preceded by the notorious hooded processors. No matter what you believes it is local culture to the extreme and is a worth while experience.



Day Trip: El Escorial

After my second trip to Madrid I wanted to do something a little different for the day. I took the train with some friend some 30 minutes outside the city to the San Lorenzo de El Escorial which is home to a gargantuan 16th century complex that was once a royal palace, a school, a monastery and a museum. It is still a monastery and museum and deserves a visit. The town itself is charming and quiet, while the Monastery is historical perfection. There are perfectly pruned gardens, a magnificent library and miles of passages ways and paths to walk all day long.



Day Trip: Montserrat

Besides the Pyrenees the mountains of Montserrat are definitive to the region. The bulbous mountains are home to a most serene monastery. The monks here make everything from pottery to soap and other goods. It is also home to an amazing children's choir that you just may be lucky enough to hear if you are there during one of their rehearsals.



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Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Spain Month: Barcelona Part 2

5) La Boqueria: This one of a kind market is located off of the biggest tourist trap in the city, Las Ramblas. At times it is unavoidable to walk down this massive street, especially as a tourist, but the overpriced restaurants, pick pockets and vendors selling generally unappealing things make it a must miss. However about halfway down Las Ramblas on the right is the cities largest market La Boqueria. It is a sight to behold. The entrance resembles something to be found in Paris not Barcelona but the inside is a feast for the senses. If I have one word of advice about this market it is look don't buy, in the very front that is. The tourists traps are in the very front of the market, but of course everything there looks the best. There is outrageously expensive candy, tropical fruit for a small fortune, but if you make it past the crowds and can get to the back that is where the good stuff is. It is where the few locals that visit La Boqueria go. There are fish stalls and meat markets with half butchered pigs, carts weighed down with aged sausage and smelly cheese, chefs cooking up the freshest produce of the day, nuts and dried fruits and fresh bread! If you are worried about spending too much with the language gap try asking for a specific amount of something: "I'll have 3 euros worth of almonds" (of course try to say it in spanish if you can.


4) Gracia: It took me too long to visit Gracia. I had a friend who was living in the area and I finally ventured up to meet her one day. Gracia is where the cool kids hang out, but not the pretentious never want to hang out with them cool kids, but the kids you want to be around, the kids you want to be. There is bar after bar, cafe after cafe, gelato shop after gelato shop not to mention music venues, galleries, boutiques, art house cinemas, thrift stores and locals!

3) Tibidabo: High above the city, in the outer limits of Barcelona and directly opposite Montjuic lies the heavenly mountain of Tibidabo. There is of course the amusement park perched on the edge of the mountain and featured in the sensational film Vicky Christina Barcelona and there is the ominous church of the Sagrat Cor (sacred heart), but the best part of Tibidabo is the the trip up the mountain. You can take the metro to the base, but then you have to climb the rest of the way by funicular. The first time I went was the week before Easter and I watch as little old ladies wearing their Sunday best climbed aboard with bunches of laurel leafs in their hands. Once you step of the car you are transported out of the city and back in time. You can take a bus the rest of the way up to the church or you can walk the many trails and roads that take you there and I recommend you walk. There are paths that lead through luscious forests brimming with birds and roads that go by white washed villages and yellow colored storefronts, monks and nuns, school children and just generally happy people.


2) Parque Guell: Yes, more Guadi, you cannot escape him in this city and why would you want to? It is almost always over crowded, can be very dusty and takes a little while to get up there, but it doesn't matter. Parque Guell is more colorful than your most vivid dream. It is a playground of tiles and palm tree, hibiscus flours and parrots. If you are lucky enough to go on a day where there are not too many people, then find a seat on the infamous bench, read a book (yes a whole book) smear your face with sunscreen and just stew in the feeling of having spent an entire day in one of the craziest and beautiful parks on earth.


1) The Sagrada Familia: It is most people's number one, but it truly is one of the most magnificent things I have ever seen. When I was 14 years old I saw a picture of it in a text book and from that moment on I dreamed of the strange church dripping like wax and falling like a sand castle. There are more things to look at than there are minutes in a day, but if you do not go inside (it's ok if you don't, remember this building is perpetually under construction) then just walk around it, look at the doors, decipher the stories within the sculptures, marvel at the sheer scope of the project and then walk to a nearby cafe order a coffee and look at it some more.

Essentials:

Sunglasses

Sunscreen

a secure bag

comfortable but fashionable walking shoes

journal


Best Time to go: Any time of year except December and January (it can get a little cold and grey) October is perfect for missing the tourist season, but you still have hot weather.


Length of Stay: You could go for just a weekend, but I would recommend at least 4-5 days to pack it all in and still feel relaxed.


Book: Divisidero by Michael Ondaatje, his poetic prose will calm your soul.


Soundtrack: MGMT Time to Pretend