Saturday, March 19, 2011
Thursday, March 17, 2011
Venice Essentials
Venice isn't like every other city, so here are some special recommendations for you trip to this unique destination.
Clothing: Venice is a warmer climate, but obviously what you where depends on the time of year you go. No matter what I would recommend a good pare of shoes or sandals. Sandals, suck as Fit Flops or Clarks are perfect for comfort and keeping your feet cool, but sneakers are always a good choice, just no flat soles! I would also recommend a hat if you have sensitive skins, the sun can get very hot. And like any city layers are the best, cardigans, like windbreakers, things you can easily pull on and off and still tuck away in a belt loop or purse if you need to.
In you bag: A camera, obviously, but for those photography buffs out there make sure you remember your polarizer, you don't want to miss out on making that sky look extra blue. Sunscreen and sunglasses during sunny days.
A bottle of water. It can be expensive to buy it once in the city and you cannot drink the water there.
Change for the bathroom, you might have to pay to use the facilities and wet-ones or tissues for the same purpose.
A guide book, but it's not 100% necessary, although a map would be nice if not for any other reason than to find the train station.
Book: The Birth of Venus by Sarah Dunant, This historical tale of one of Italy's most famous artists will put your mind back to the time when Venice was tourist-free and fashionable.
Soundtrack: Beirut, Gulag Orkestar
Clothing: Venice is a warmer climate, but obviously what you where depends on the time of year you go. No matter what I would recommend a good pare of shoes or sandals. Sandals, suck as Fit Flops or Clarks are perfect for comfort and keeping your feet cool, but sneakers are always a good choice, just no flat soles! I would also recommend a hat if you have sensitive skins, the sun can get very hot. And like any city layers are the best, cardigans, like windbreakers, things you can easily pull on and off and still tuck away in a belt loop or purse if you need to.
In you bag: A camera, obviously, but for those photography buffs out there make sure you remember your polarizer, you don't want to miss out on making that sky look extra blue. Sunscreen and sunglasses during sunny days.
A bottle of water. It can be expensive to buy it once in the city and you cannot drink the water there.
Change for the bathroom, you might have to pay to use the facilities and wet-ones or tissues for the same purpose.
A guide book, but it's not 100% necessary, although a map would be nice if not for any other reason than to find the train station.
Book: The Birth of Venus by Sarah Dunant, This historical tale of one of Italy's most famous artists will put your mind back to the time when Venice was tourist-free and fashionable.
Soundtrack: Beirut, Gulag Orkestar
One Day In Venice
A few days ago I saw a picture of Venice in a magazine. I looked at it for a minute or two, trying to decipher where the nondescript bridge over the canal was. The longer I looked at it, the more it took me back to the single day I spent in Venice last spring. It was my first and only time going to the sinking city and in that one day I saw enough, felt enough and lived enough to fill an entire lifetime with lush memories.
We had decided to stay outside of the city of Venice due to the fact that we were in a rental car and it was much cheaper and spacious. We were coming from rainy Sazlburg and after miles upon miles of vibrant mountains and misty meadows it seemed as though we were finally entering warmer climates. The manageable turnpikes turned into massive highways of freight trucks and weekend traffic. The landscape sprouted Cyprus and olive trees. The house turned to terracotta and finally, far into the distance, you could see the hazy shoreline of eastern Italy. As we exited the main road we entered the small town of Scorze. It felt as if I was taken my winter holiday in Florida. I was momentarily unimpressed by the nondescript landscape of suburban houses and grassy fields. Our Hotel itself, the Hotel Antico Mulino looked like nothing special. It was modern and clean, with a few of a tilled piece of farmland and it sat alongside a dried and murky riverbed, but the inside was very clean and sleek and the rooms, although not terrible special were also clean, with AC and boutique toiletries (always a plus). We arrived late and decided to eat at the hotel restaurant, I almost never do this, but since we were a train ride away from Venice and the village did not hold many options we just decided to stay put. It was amazing. The portions were small, super fancy, but some of the best food I have ever had and the local house wine was equally amazing. This was certainly not the cheapest option, but it was worthwhile.
The next day, after a descent continental breakfast at the hotel we were dressed in our summer best and headed for the train. After a bit of a panic over train times and scrambling to receive our tickets before the train left the platform, we were seated and watching the industrial outskirts of Venice pass up by. As I sat watching the stalled boxcars and abandoned construction machinery I was suddenly hit head on, in an instant of sun and brick by the city of Venice. It rises up as if from another world, and most certainly another time. It is there, in the middle of the harbor, preserved and heated through. It was almost a mad scramble off of the train and through the station, like not being able to scratch the middle of your back fast enough. One moment you are on the mainland, in the present and the next you are there in a different world.
There are things to see, the tourist things, the random things, the personal things, but it doesn't matter. You will see the main attractions, because the are obvious and all roads eventually lead to them, but this is also where the crowds are. There are swarms of tourists that is makes it near impossible to get a descent picture. There are also swarms of vendors, peddling every cheap and inauthentic things you can imagine.
There are two things that we did that you must do and one thing that we didn't do that I wish we did. You must just walk. Walk around, you will not get lost, I promise. Walk the street and allies, go into the shops no one is in, walk away from the crowds. My fondest and most vivid memories were from an abandoned square, a decrepit church or the back path behind ancient apartment buildings that led to private entrances into the canal. The contrast between the dusty white streets, the steadfast stone walls and the painfully bright and blue sky are fantastic.
The second thing you must do is take a ferry to one of the islands. We went to Murano and it is yet even further away from the known world. The slice of island closest to the ferry landing can be overwhelming with stores and tourists, but once you have walked away from all of that, there is a sense of quiet about everything. You can see a glass blowing demonstration, admire the boats and eat Gelato until your heart is content.
While you are on the boat, do the one thing I wish we did. Go to the cemetery. It is situated on its own island. It is lined by Cyprus trees and white washed and cast-iron walls and gates. It is mysterious and marvelous. It is a cemetery on water and it undoubtedly holds some of histories most interesting Italians, famous or not.
If this city sounds wonderful and unbelievable, it is, at times, but there were a few moments when I was beyond my capacity to hold in my anger. It is never easy choosing a place to eat and this may have been the hardest city to decide on dinner and when we did it was just ok. There are also too many people, all of the time and they all seemed to have a bit of a push, shove attitude. It is also expensive, hot and confined, but believe me when I say these are minor set backs. I would have maybe gone in more of an off season, but I think one full day was perfect and our decision to stay outside of the city was ideal.
Overall this is a city for the escapist. It is a romantic city and it can be a peaceful city, you just may have to work a bit harder and walk a bit longer to find this tranquility.
We had decided to stay outside of the city of Venice due to the fact that we were in a rental car and it was much cheaper and spacious. We were coming from rainy Sazlburg and after miles upon miles of vibrant mountains and misty meadows it seemed as though we were finally entering warmer climates. The manageable turnpikes turned into massive highways of freight trucks and weekend traffic. The landscape sprouted Cyprus and olive trees. The house turned to terracotta and finally, far into the distance, you could see the hazy shoreline of eastern Italy. As we exited the main road we entered the small town of Scorze. It felt as if I was taken my winter holiday in Florida. I was momentarily unimpressed by the nondescript landscape of suburban houses and grassy fields. Our Hotel itself, the Hotel Antico Mulino looked like nothing special. It was modern and clean, with a few of a tilled piece of farmland and it sat alongside a dried and murky riverbed, but the inside was very clean and sleek and the rooms, although not terrible special were also clean, with AC and boutique toiletries (always a plus). We arrived late and decided to eat at the hotel restaurant, I almost never do this, but since we were a train ride away from Venice and the village did not hold many options we just decided to stay put. It was amazing. The portions were small, super fancy, but some of the best food I have ever had and the local house wine was equally amazing. This was certainly not the cheapest option, but it was worthwhile.
The next day, after a descent continental breakfast at the hotel we were dressed in our summer best and headed for the train. After a bit of a panic over train times and scrambling to receive our tickets before the train left the platform, we were seated and watching the industrial outskirts of Venice pass up by. As I sat watching the stalled boxcars and abandoned construction machinery I was suddenly hit head on, in an instant of sun and brick by the city of Venice. It rises up as if from another world, and most certainly another time. It is there, in the middle of the harbor, preserved and heated through. It was almost a mad scramble off of the train and through the station, like not being able to scratch the middle of your back fast enough. One moment you are on the mainland, in the present and the next you are there in a different world.
There are things to see, the tourist things, the random things, the personal things, but it doesn't matter. You will see the main attractions, because the are obvious and all roads eventually lead to them, but this is also where the crowds are. There are swarms of tourists that is makes it near impossible to get a descent picture. There are also swarms of vendors, peddling every cheap and inauthentic things you can imagine.
There are two things that we did that you must do and one thing that we didn't do that I wish we did. You must just walk. Walk around, you will not get lost, I promise. Walk the street and allies, go into the shops no one is in, walk away from the crowds. My fondest and most vivid memories were from an abandoned square, a decrepit church or the back path behind ancient apartment buildings that led to private entrances into the canal. The contrast between the dusty white streets, the steadfast stone walls and the painfully bright and blue sky are fantastic.
The second thing you must do is take a ferry to one of the islands. We went to Murano and it is yet even further away from the known world. The slice of island closest to the ferry landing can be overwhelming with stores and tourists, but once you have walked away from all of that, there is a sense of quiet about everything. You can see a glass blowing demonstration, admire the boats and eat Gelato until your heart is content.
While you are on the boat, do the one thing I wish we did. Go to the cemetery. It is situated on its own island. It is lined by Cyprus trees and white washed and cast-iron walls and gates. It is mysterious and marvelous. It is a cemetery on water and it undoubtedly holds some of histories most interesting Italians, famous or not.
If this city sounds wonderful and unbelievable, it is, at times, but there were a few moments when I was beyond my capacity to hold in my anger. It is never easy choosing a place to eat and this may have been the hardest city to decide on dinner and when we did it was just ok. There are also too many people, all of the time and they all seemed to have a bit of a push, shove attitude. It is also expensive, hot and confined, but believe me when I say these are minor set backs. I would have maybe gone in more of an off season, but I think one full day was perfect and our decision to stay outside of the city was ideal.
Overall this is a city for the escapist. It is a romantic city and it can be a peaceful city, you just may have to work a bit harder and walk a bit longer to find this tranquility.
Sunday, March 6, 2011
Italy: Day Trip Lake Como
Day Trip: Lake Como
On our journey across northern Italy we drove from Venice to the Aosta Valley and right in the middle is the luxurious Lake Como. We could have spent longer strolling through the dozens of lakeside villages or taking tours of some of the famous villas, but we were going from point A to point B and the lake was just a mere distraction for a few hours. We drove to the little town of Bellagio and then boarded a car ferry to Menaggio. The trip last only about 15 minutes. But as you are standing on the back of the ferry with the lake all around your looking at the mountains, villages and villas just take a second to think of where you are and be happy in that truly unique moment. It is worth the money to take the ferry just to go out on the lake, but if you want a longer Lake Como experience I would recommend driving the long way around the fingers of the lake so you can see everything up close and personal.
On our journey across northern Italy we drove from Venice to the Aosta Valley and right in the middle is the luxurious Lake Como. We could have spent longer strolling through the dozens of lakeside villages or taking tours of some of the famous villas, but we were going from point A to point B and the lake was just a mere distraction for a few hours. We drove to the little town of Bellagio and then boarded a car ferry to Menaggio. The trip last only about 15 minutes. But as you are standing on the back of the ferry with the lake all around your looking at the mountains, villages and villas just take a second to think of where you are and be happy in that truly unique moment. It is worth the money to take the ferry just to go out on the lake, but if you want a longer Lake Como experience I would recommend driving the long way around the fingers of the lake so you can see everything up close and personal.
Italy: Top 10 Rome Part 2
5) Galleria Borghese: It is one of the best museums on the planet if you ask me. All is how it should be, works perfectly situated throughout the spacious rooms. The Villa itself if a warm stone place placed in an oasis in the city. The gardens are a dream and the park surrounding the villa is an airy wonder that deserves to be covered inch by peaceful inch.
4) The Spanish Steps and the Mouth of Truth: Everyone has seen the film "Roman Holiday" and if you haven't you should! As a teenage girl visiting Rome for the first time I have never come to have another more exciting experience than standing on the Spanish steps where one Audrey Hepburn stood and realizing where I actually was. Another scene from the film takes place at the " Bocca della Verita." It is a bit hidden but the walk to and around this area is splendid and its a good neighborhood to escape tourists and just get lost among the buildings and ruins.
3) Piazza Navona: This is what Rome is all about. People watching, drinking wine, eating gelato, sitting in a neighboring square talking with friends. My first trip to Rome was less than perfect, but when we were feeling low we would return time after time to this area and just sit, look, listen and talk and then everything would be right again.
2) Pantheon: One of the best preserved buildings from Ancient Rome. It was built in the 2nd century AD and admission if free! This is another place that could only be found in Rome. The sheer size of the building, the immense amount of genius it took to building and remain upright today is baffling. The surrounding area is a bit of a tourist trap, especially for meals so my advice is to stop to sit and have a drink, then move on.
1) Trastevere neighborhood: Any time of day is good to come to this neighborhood. I happened to go at a strange time between meals. My friend and I found a small restaurant with only one other patron and sat down. It was down a little street next to a variety store and across from several apartment buildings. Down the street you could see children kicking a ball around and at one point during our time there we witnessed a nice young man ask out a very nice young woman. We drank an almost insane amount of delicious red wine and devoured the single best pizza of my entire life. Our faces got sunburned, we were tipsy, but were sublimely happy.
4) The Spanish Steps and the Mouth of Truth: Everyone has seen the film "Roman Holiday" and if you haven't you should! As a teenage girl visiting Rome for the first time I have never come to have another more exciting experience than standing on the Spanish steps where one Audrey Hepburn stood and realizing where I actually was. Another scene from the film takes place at the " Bocca della Verita." It is a bit hidden but the walk to and around this area is splendid and its a good neighborhood to escape tourists and just get lost among the buildings and ruins.
3) Piazza Navona: This is what Rome is all about. People watching, drinking wine, eating gelato, sitting in a neighboring square talking with friends. My first trip to Rome was less than perfect, but when we were feeling low we would return time after time to this area and just sit, look, listen and talk and then everything would be right again.
2) Pantheon: One of the best preserved buildings from Ancient Rome. It was built in the 2nd century AD and admission if free! This is another place that could only be found in Rome. The sheer size of the building, the immense amount of genius it took to building and remain upright today is baffling. The surrounding area is a bit of a tourist trap, especially for meals so my advice is to stop to sit and have a drink, then move on. 
1) Trastevere neighborhood: Any time of day is good to come to this neighborhood. I happened to go at a strange time between meals. My friend and I found a small restaurant with only one other patron and sat down. It was down a little street next to a variety store and across from several apartment buildings. Down the street you could see children kicking a ball around and at one point during our time there we witnessed a nice young man ask out a very nice young woman. We drank an almost insane amount of delicious red wine and devoured the single best pizza of my entire life. Our faces got sunburned, we were tipsy, but were sublimely happy.
Italy: Top 10 Rome Part 1
Something about this city is too much to handle. You never quite get over the disbelief of being there. One minute your marveling at the extreme speed the cars whip through the streets and the next you are sitting on the edge of a fountain, thousands of years old, contemplating what it would take to move to Rome permanently. I have been to Rome twice and the two trips seemed to derive from different worlds. The experiences were singular and incomparable. It is an enormous city, it is an ancient city, a romantic city, a busy city, a frightening city but most of all it is a sensuous city and one that you need to experience in your lifetime.
Top Ten Rome
10) The colosseum: I have had friends exclaim when they first enter the Colosseum "I thought it would be bigger" of course at one time it was larger, but these comments always amaze me. If it is a clear day there is nothing more breathtaking than the top rise of structure against that cobalt Italian sky. It is worth the admission price and it is worth stopping by a second time when the sun has gone down so you can see it lit up in all its glory as moped swirl around its exterior.
Top Ten Rome
10) The colosseum: I have had friends exclaim when they first enter the Colosseum "I thought it would be bigger" of course at one time it was larger, but these comments always amaze me. If it is a clear day there is nothing more breathtaking than the top rise of structure against that cobalt Italian sky. It is worth the admission price and it is worth stopping by a second time when the sun has gone down so you can see it lit up in all its glory as moped swirl around its exterior.
9) The Roman Forum and the Capitoline Hill: There is too much to see. Rome is truly best visited when the weather is nice, but that usually mean visiting during the peak tourist season, but I would suggest going slightly off season, either in the fall or early spring for no other reason than to walk through the forum when there aren't swarms of people. It will still be amazing if you are elbow to elbow with strangers walking around the giant, freeze-framed, half deconstructed area, but it will be breathtaking if you can take your time, sit down on a worn piece of marble and simply walk around like it was any old part of the city.
8)The Vatican and Sistine Chapel: The smarted thing I have ever done in my life was to buy tickets in advance online for almost every major attraction I visited in Rome. The second time I visited the city It was during Easter and I bought advance tickets to see the Sistine Chapel and Vatican Museum and you simply walk around a mile long line of people waiting on the streets and get right in! There are no cameras allowed inside, but I would recommend bring a small pair of binoculars to view the spectacular details on the ceiling. Another must while you are in the Vatican city is to send a postcard from the Vatican post office (it is its own country after all) and your card will be stamped from the Vatican and not Italy. 
7) The fountains,: Of course the Trevi is the most famous. It is a bit hard to find, but don't worry you will get there. Besides the Trevi there are hundreds of other glorious fountains incredibly famous sculptors just lining the sidewalks.
6) Bernini: If one sculptor has a monopoly over Rome it may just be Bernini. He has some of the best known pieces of art in the city from the provocative "Ecstacy of St. Theresa"and "Rape of Persephone" to the lesser known "Blessed Ludovica Albertoni" situated in the quiet San Francesco a Ripa church. I went on a mad hunt for this last sculpture my final hours in Rome before flying back to Hungary. My friend and I finally found it and determined to see the work we burst into the church midday to discover the pews filled with nuns attending afternoon mass. We caught a quick glimpse of the statue and a last look at the true Rome before sneaking out unnoticed. 
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